Travel stories, hiking tips, restaurant reviews and things to do in the Monterey Bay area.
Thursday, April 9, 2015
The Restaurant at Ventana in Big Sur: Nourishment for Your Soul & Appetite
This dining destination nestled within the posh Ventana Inn & Spa is surrounded with views of Big Sur's rocky coastline to the west and lush rolling hills of the Ventana Wilderness to the east. The panoramic views are sure to put your mind ease; but don't take it from me, just ask the chef.
Executive Chef Paul Corsentino moved from his swanky digs in midtown Manhattan after experiencing the serenity of California's Central Coast during his honeymoon; and we couldn't be happier! His carefully crafted prix-fixe dinner menu is particularly impressive with an array of options using locally sourced and sustainable ingredients.
Needing a mini-vacay, I decided to head down the coast and try some of Paul's new Californian creations.
One of the hardest decisions you will have to make once you arrive is whether to sit inside their sophisticated and cozy dining room or their more casual and kick-back outdoor patio.
When dining for lunch I tend to opt for their lavender laden outdoor patio but on this particular dinner occasion I chose to be wined and dined inside near the luxurious roaring fireplace.
An impressive (and affordable) wine and dinner menu was presented by a friendly and hospitable waiter. After a few sips of Pinot Noir I dove into the menu for my carefully selected four courses. Word of caution, it's difficult to choose just one dish in each course with tantalizing items like roasted foie gras, soy glazed turnips and ricotta gnudi.
After placing our orders the waiter presented us with complimentary bread and the chef's special pickled rhubarb dip, which was like nothing I have ever seen, or tasted. The magenta rhubarb made this dish pop in both presentation and flavor, a great accompaniment with the fresh feta cheese and earthy olive oil.
The first course of local halibut crudo soon followed and started things off with a bang. The ginger miso vinaigrette had an incredible kick that was offset by the pickled seaweed. The raw fish was clearly fresh and the consistency was spot on.
The second course provided another local delicacy from the sea. The grilled octopus was, may I dare say, one of the best I have ever had. The charred tentacles were crispy yet tender and the lemon zest added a pleasant burst of surprise.
Switching things up I opted for an entrée from the land. The pork chop dish was huge, especially for a tasting menu; no skimping on portions here. The well-seasoned pork was delightful on its own but the sauce with juicy bacon slices, cannellini beans and sweet artichokes certainly earned additional points in my book.
Even though I was stuffed at this point I was not going to miss out on the fourth course, and the most important meal of the day, dessert! The bannoffee cake was a slam dunk with a creamy banana pudding served over a graham cracker crust and topped off with caramelized bananas and crunchy heath bar. Talk about indulgence!
The Restaurant at Ventana is sure to nourish your soul and your appetite.
Reservations for dinner are highly recommended, 831-667-4242. The four-course tasting menu is offered daily from 6pm-9pm for $75 per person. Dishes may also be ordered a la carte.
Thursday, February 20, 2014
Above the Clouds: Point Sur Lightstation, Big Sur
Ever notice the piece of land resembling an island off of Highway One in Big Sur? It is a place where the coastline twists and turns along steep cliffs rearing high above white-tipped waves. The scene is dominated by Point Sur, a lofty monolith ringed by massive offshore boulders, dangerous reefs and swift currents. Did you know that at the top of Point Sur there is a lighthouse that some say is haunted, and did you know that you could actually climb to the top for impressive views for just $10? This place has always struck my curiosity and has been on my bucket list of “things to do” for quite some time.
Finally, after living in Monterey County for three years I decided to dedicate last Sunday to visit the mysterious Point Sur Lightstation. You might be wondering why it is a lightstation – not a lighthouse. Well it was once so remote (it didn’t have a road until 1937) that it basically had to provide for itself, so not only is there a lighthouse on property but there is also a barn, workshop and keeper’s quarters.
After scoping out the official Point Sur State Historic Park website and reviewing the tour schedule I chose the three-hour tour leaving on Sunday at 10am. All tours are on a first come first served basis (no reservations accepted) so I arrived a few minutes early.
I approached the farm gate off of Highway One, just as the website instructions stated, and was greeted by Trevor. Trevor directed my friend and I to travel down the manicured dirt road and to park at the base of the hill. The short drive was a treat in itself! Cattle surrounded both sides of the ocean view trail; I can see why the commercial says, “Happy cows come from California!”
Once at the summit we met up with the other lighthouse visitors and our other guide Al. Our group of fifteen was quite the diverse crowd. There was a mix of locals, young families, singles and even visitors from the Netherlands.
Al and Trevor guided us up the semi-steep hill to the lighthouse. Getting there is somewhat of a challenge as you must walk to the top of the secluded volcanic rock (360 feet elevation gain) and navigate two sets of stairs. Luckily we made several stops along the way for stories about the various families that called the lightstation home. The guides also noted several shipwrecks that occurred in the area including the wreck of the Ventura in 1875; this particular accident influenced the construction of the lighthouse which began operation in 1889.
Although the history was fascinating it was hard to pay attention with the distracting views along the way. We were looking down the cliffs with expansive vistas of the ocean and jagged coast. There was even a sea lion on the rocky shores below us, enjoying the view as well I suppose.
After 45 minutes of walking and talking we turned a corner and there she was, the Point Sur Lighthouse stood out on a bluff peeking over the Pacific Ocean; I could not wait to climb to the top!
Once at the lighthouse we separated into two groups. Half of the group went up into the tower while the other half toured the lower museum area where the fog horn and Fresnel lens displays are held.
I chose to tour the museum portion first in order to save the view for last. Al talked about the Tyfon Fog Signal that the lighthouse utilized until the 1970’s. He then gave us a short lecture on the Fresnel lens and its function as the guiding light. The lighthouse’s original lens was an astonishing 18 feet tall and six feet in diameter and is now on display at the Museum of Monterey (MOM). The lighthouse currently uses a flash pattern system where light is flashed every 15 seconds.
After our lesson it was time to venture to the top of the lighthouse. We began to climb the spiral staircase stopping at each one of the windows to take a peek outside. Little did we know that these views were nothing compared to the surprise at the top.
Once at the top it seemed that everyone said “wow” in complete unison. The expansive panorama outside of the lantern room was truly breathtaking! From the front end of the lighthouse you looked into an infinity of ocean while the backside provided vistas of (what seemed like) the entire Big Sur coastline. The aqua colored water crashed directly below us and you could smell the sea in the soothing breeze. I could have stayed on the balcony all afternoon but Al wrangled us in to continue onto the blacksmith shop, barn and lightstation residence.
We took the stairs below the lighthouse up to the remainder of the lightstation grounds. The first stop was the carpenter/blacksmith shop. The cute workshop was resorted to resemble how it most likely looked in 1929 and housed several tools dating back to the 1920’s.
Point Sur’s barn was once used for the lightstation families’ livestock. It is now used as a recreation area and for special events held on the grounds.
Next up was the keeper’s quarters where several of the families resided. The cozy two-story house was complete with a kitchen, dining room, living room, bedrooms, washroom and bathrooms all reflecting the 1950’s era; talk about rooms with a view!
The last stop on the tour was the visitor center and gift shop. This place has all of your lighthouse needs from books, clothing and more; this is also where you pay for the tour. Fees are $5 for children ages 6-17 and $10 for adults, which I thought was a steal for this phenomenal three-hour tour! For a full schedule of tours click here.
I would highly recommend this tour for locals, visitors and just about anyone that is into epic views and interesting history. The lighthouse also offers special Ghost Tours every October, which can be quite fun, even if you don't believe in ghosts. For details visit www.pointsur.org.
If you go:
- Arrive early- Reservations are not available so be sure to claim your spot on the tour before it fills up!
- Wear lots of layers- Point Sur can get very windy and the clouds can be unpredictable. Wear several layers of clothing including windbreakers, beanies and hats (just don’t let them fly off).
- Wear your walking shoes- This is a one mile walking tour. Wear your comfortable shoes for an incline hill and two sets of stairs.
- Bring your camera- Make your friends and family jealous of the awesome photos from your tour.
- Ask questions- Guides and docents have gone through an extensive training process about the history and facts of the Point Sur Lightstation. Test their keen knowledge with any questions you may have.
- Leave your snacks at home- Although it may be tempting; avoid brining picnics, food or wrappers onto the Point Sur grounds. The park does not allow food or snacks on the tour.
- If you have mobility issues that are of concern, call California State Parks at 831-667-0258 well in advance to see how they can accommodate you.
Wednesday, February 5, 2014
Tales from the Trail: Rocky Ridge Trail, Garrapata State Park, Big Sur
As part of my New Year’s resolution to explore more of Monterey County I set aside last weekend to scope out more of Big Sur’s breathtaking treasures. If you recall, my last excursion took me to Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park where I trekked through the Tan Bark and Tin House Trail. This time around I wanted to stay a bit more on the northern part of Big Sur. After doing a little research I decided on a locals favorite trail loop called the Rocky Ridge and Soberanes Canyon Trails in Garrapata State Park. As soon as I read that this park had views of both the Big Sur coast and Soberanes Canyon my mind was made up and a starting planning my next adventure!
My hiking buddy and I left Monterey just after 12:30pm and after a very easy and scenic drive we arrived to Garrapata State Park just before 1pm. Signs for the park are not easy to find (I assume this is what makes the area a locals secret) so my companion and I had paid close attention to the turnouts and mile markers along the way. Once we came up to turnout 13 we parked the car on the coastal side of Highway One near a row of cypress trees.
After walking (or should I say running) across the road we entered the gates towards the Rocky Ridge and Soberanes Canyon Trails. We crossed a small stream and continued towards a tin house sitting pretty in a field of yellow wildflowers. I thought these flowers were spectacular but little did I know what lay ahead. Make sure to take note of the blue porta- potty near the tin house; it is the only facility in the whole park.
My fellow hiker and I decided to take the Rocky Road Trail to the top and loop down the Soberanes Canyon Trail having the best of both the coastal and valley views.
Once on the trail I made the mistake of looking up and immediately realized I was in for a steep hike up to the top; luckily there were incredible views of the Big Sur coast barking sea lions in the background to distract my burning muscles as I climbed the never ending mountain side.
The most surprising part of the climb to the top was the kaleidoscope of wildflowers that blanketed the sides of the trails. I had assumed that the flowers had reached their peak in April-May but these babies were still in full bloom. I have never seen so many bushels of purples, oranges, yellows and greens.
After the 1.5 hour long climb to the top we rested on the rock at the peak with epic views of both the rocky coast and the lush Soberanes Canyon. This truly made the 1,850 elevation gain worth it! Once we snapped some photos and felt rejuvenated it was time for the fun part…. getting down.
The hike down, although much easier than going up, still had its challenges. The trail was still very steep and I was certain I would land on my dairy air at any moment; fortunately this never came to fruition. The descent downhill seemed to go quickly and it was rather enjoyable watching panting hikers going up asking “how much farther to the top?”
Once down the hill we were blanketed by a vast amount of redwood trees that covered the canyon floor. The greenery provided the perfect amount of shade from the beating sun. The grounds resembled something from Jurassic Park, nothing like the colorful display just above. Various hues of green shrubs carpeted areas that weren’t occupied by the stream.
Even more surprising than the wildflowers being in bloom were the cacti that covered one side of the hillside. There were hundreds of these thistly plants!
The seven-mile hike made for the perfect Big Sur escape. If you plan to go on this hike be sure to wear good hiking shoes with plenty of traction. Water is also a must as it can get hot out and you will sweat! For other great day hikes in the area check out the "Top Ten Day Hikes in Monterey County."
Wednesday, January 29, 2014
Tales from the Trail: Tan Bark Trail & Tin House, Big Sur
Living in Monterey County makes me take Big Sur for granted. In less than an hour I can be transported to one of the most scenic destinations in California. Usually I take in the majestic beauty from the comfort of my own car, on the patio of Nepenthe, or with my feet in the Big Sur River at Big Sur River Inn. This time I decided to change things up for a more rugged hiking adventure. I am nowhere near being a seasoned hiker (unless the walk to McWay Falls counts) but I have no problem getting my heart rate up in the name of natural beauty.
With so many trails and day hikes to choose from I did a little research and looked to some of my local hiker friends for some advice. Wanting both the feel of the redwoods and the epic coastal views it was easy to choose the Tan Bark Trail located in Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park.
My Tan Bark-experienced friend and I left Pacific Grove around 12:30pm and arrived at Partington Canyon in Big Sur around 1:35pm. The trail begins at Partington Creek which is located along Highway One just 6 miles south of Nepenthe. There is a large pullout off of Highway One where you can easily park along the guardrail.
After grabbing a few waters and granola bars my friend and I set out on the 6 mile loop which begins at the base of Partington Creek on the redwood side. We walked along the base of the creek and forged into the redwood forest. Once we crossed the bridge the uphill battle began, and our heart rates increased. Luckily we wore layers of clothing which soon came down to the final tank top after all the exertion of the first mile. The first 3 miles or so of the hike were steep and strenuous. I was extremely thankful for the never-ending redwood trees and emerging ocean views . It wasn’t just for the beauty; with those views I could play it off that I was enjoying nature when, in reality, I was giving my quads a much needed break. It was also nice being able to gasp in the fresh and clean ocean air.
Before the descent we took the short trail to the Tin House. This random structure in the middle of the forest has some of the best views one could ever dream up. The rusty ol’ shed was built in 1944 by a former New York Congressman. The entire “house” is made up of old tin sheets taken from gas stations. The story is that the family moved in after construction and after one night moved out. Apparently they didn’t take into consideration how hot and noisy a tin can could be. The structure is quite decrepit now but the views are still priceless.
There is a beautiful open field in front of the home where a few other hikers were enjoying lunch. I was secretly hoping they would offer me some of their carbo-licious sandwiches but no such luck. I made the best of my granola bar. I guess I couldn’t complain too much with such a spectacular view of the ocean, which seemed to go on for eternity.
After basking in the sun we took the fire road back down to Highway One. This part of the trail was the reward from our hard efforts during the first half. The downhill walk offered amazing coastal views all the way down.
I particularly appreciated the silence and stillness of the trail as we seemed to be the only hikers on it at the time. We also made a few short stops to enjoy the early signs of spring and the wildflowers (especially the California Poppies) that were popping up all over the place.
Once we made it to Highway One we hiked about another mile along the scenic highway back to the car. We stopped at a vista point where we rehydrated and stared at the crashing waves along the rocky coastline. My hair was starting frizz due to the nearness of the ocean so it was time for our journey to end. We finally arrived back to the car at 4:40pm and enjoyed the drive back home.
After taking the route less taken I have decided to embark on more hikes around the area. With so much to do and see around here it is a shame not to!
Tuesday, January 28, 2014
Tales from the Trail: Pfeiffer Beach, Home of the Purple Sand
I have found that the rock arch at Pfeiffer Beach is one of the most photographed landmarks in Big Sur, besides Bixby Bridge of course. Having seen so many epic pictures of this unusual stone with a donut hole through the middle I just had to check it out for myself.
Being an obsessive planner I made sure to get thorough directions to this hidden gem and boy am I glad I did! Pfeiffer Beach is very hard to find for the uninitiated. There is no signage except for a yellow “Narrow Road” warning on the side of the road, definitely not the welcome I was expecting. The Beach is located at the end of unmarked Sycamore Canyon Road, which is the only paved, un-gated road on the west side of Highway One between the Big Sur Post Office and Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park.
After spotting the yellow warning sign I did a quick sharp turn down the narrow road. I continued to travel downhill and pulled to the shoulder of the road a few times letting those go by in the opposite direction. After a short majestic ride in the shaded redwood forest I reached the entrance gate to the beach.
I paid my $5 entrance fee to the friendly booth attendant and easily found a parking space near the handy restrooms. I had come prepared with hiking shoes and attire in hand but soon realized I wouldn’t need any of it. You can see the flat sandy beach from the manicured path starting at the parking lot which is great for those not wanting to embark on a traitorous hike through the Big Sur wilderness.
Once the full beach came into view I could easily see why photographers flock to this paradise. There was a scene waiting to be captured in every corner. To my left were crashing waves along the rugged coastline, to my right was the famous rock arch and up above were jagged rock formations that looked like they just came out of the Big Thunder Mountain Railroad ride at Disneyland.
The rock arch did not disappoint- the massive curved boulder seemed to sit perfectly on the beach’s shore. I was mesmerized by the constant flood of ocean water sweeping in and out of its “door.”
The hobbit-ish rocks above were great for climbing. The higher elevations provided an even more expansive view of this majestic hideaway.
Did I mention this beach has purple sand? Patches of amethyst hued pebbles were scattered throughout the beach. It almost looked like fairy dust, although I am sure there is some fancy scientific explanation out there.
After taking a ton of photos I unwillingly started back to my car. I will certainly be back to this beach for sunset. I can only imagine how this unspoiled “Heaven on Earth” would look under the lit up sky.
Pfeiffer Beach is for day use only and costs $5 to park, which is totally worth it! The gates are open seven days a week from 9am-sunset.
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